Monday, January 4, 2016

First Ascent 3 Himalayan Peaks in 3 days by 3 sherpas







Rolwaling Valley, Nepal was first explored in the 1950’s by British mountaineers Edmund Hillary and Eric Shipton who were followed by Swiss and Japanese expeditions. Although these mountaineers opened the door, the valley has remained isolated and almost unknown. In 2014, the Nepalese government approved climbing on several 6,000 m. peaks in Rolwaling for the first time. In light of the recent earthquake and to promote climbing in our home valley, we three local residents, Nima Tenji Sherpa, Dawa Gyalje Sherpa and Mingma Tashi  Sherpa, decided to do the first ascents of some of these newly opened peaks.





On the 26th of September, 2015, we headed to Rolwaling where we spent a day with our families. We had helped to repair trail damage following the earthquake, but more work was needed following the monsoon so we gave some money for maintenance and then headed towards  the peaks  we planned to climb. We spent two and a half days crossing Trakarding and Drolambau glaciers, reaching the advance base camp of Mt.Raungsiyar (6224m) and Mt.Langdak(6220m) on October 4th. We set up our ABC on the Drolambau glacier at an altitude of 5800m. On the same day we pushed to the summit of Mt. Raungsiar from the west ridge reaching the top at 3:15 pm and returning to ABC at 6:00 pm. We had a good meal and slept wellafter planning for our next day.  
                                                                                                

Early in the morning of October 5th, the team started up Mt. Langdak (6220m) by the west flank ridge and we reached the west summit  which is 6177m. After spending a few minutes there, we descended 100m. and then continued to the main summit via the direct west ridge . We reached the main summit at 11:45 am.  From there, we had a spectacular view of the Himalayas including six 8000m peaks  - Mt. Everest (8,848m), Mt. Lhotse (8,516m), Mt. Makalu (8,463m), Mt. Cho Oyu (8,201m), Mt. Shisapangma (8,013m) and Mt. Kanchenjunga (8,586m). We then descended to ABC and moved to Thakar Go East (6152m) base camp at the altitude of 5600m where we spent the night again.

                                                                                                                                                      

                                                                            On    October 6th, we started up Mt. Thakar Go East (6152m), which was our final summit . We reached the base of the mountain after a couple of hours crossing the Drolambau glacier to the west. We followed the Direct North East ridge which was a sharp pinnacle ridge, with a tricky and rocky bottom section. After a long ridge climb we had completed our 3 men, 3 mountains, first ascents in 3 days, at 11:15am. We celebrated our team success with big hug, and yelling on the summit.


For more fun and interest, we timed out ascents so that the day we summited corresponded to our names. Nima is the Sherpa word for Sunday so Nima Tenji Sherpa was the first to step on Mt. Raungsiar on Sunday, October 4th. Dawa means Monday so Dawa Gyalje Sherpa was the first to step on Mt. Lagdak on Monday, October 5th. Mingma means Tuesday, so Mingma Tashi stepped first on Mt.Thakar Go East on Tuesday, October 6th.


For anyone interested in Rolwaling, there are still many unclimbed peaks and even unnamed peaks, which our first ascent team is planning to climb, name and promote as new climbing destinations.
Below, we are registering our first ascents with Ms. Elizabeth Hawley since we know that no summit is official until she has accepted it.             


Thursday, September 10, 2015

Mt.Everest summit post since 2004

I started my climbing career on 8000m mountain in 2003 spring from north everest expedition with Royal Navy / Marine as a kichen Boy ( cook helper).
During the expedition i got a chance to climb high up to North col(7000m.) On four occasion.
Same year in winter i went on Mt. Lhotse with JAC Tokai section team and Autumn in Annapurna III west Face with Italian team from courmayeur mountan Guide section. We reach 7000m. and off the expedition.


              2004/5/16 on the summit

Since then again in 2004 i worked with DISCOVERY channel movie project on everest with canadian as a c-2 kichen Boy. Because i was not selected in climbing shepa team and i don't have summit  experience on Mt.Everest.
During the expedition i explained those my previous experience on mountain to the expedition leader and i got another chance to summit and i made it on 16 may 2004. its a first  time in nepalese climber community to summit everest a kichen Boy. It means we need opportunity to do something and don't miss it and till now i summited everest 8th times with different team with different experience and others mountains.

                          2006/5/17
It's my 2nd time on the summit of Mt. Everest from the north east ridge which i climb up to North col in 2003 and in 2006 we did this expedition in 25 days from ktm to ktm.we where 5 sherpa/ 5 japanese including a oldest Japanese 73 year old previous oldest climber record holder Mr. Arayama.
As well as rescue help to other Japanese team a member from 8300m. to North col (7000m.)  due to HAPS.


                                   

                            2007/5/20
Its a my 3rd time on the summit and i am the firs one on 20th summit day. I reach the summit at 4 am.




 2007/5/20 me and my summit client Aric from France below the 3rd step.stop for a cup of hot  tea and hot water.


2008/5/22
It's my 4th times on the summit of Mt.Everest with sikkim amature mountaineering association team.



2010/5/23 
It's my 5th summit on Mt.Everest with Jagged Globe everest expedition and in 2009 same team JG I stayed at South col 3 night/4days to support the 1st/2nd summit team.    


           

2011/5/25
Its my 6th summit on Mt.Everest with japanese NHK filming team THE GREAT SUMMIT and during the summit day few pictures caught on my digital camera.


Lakpa chhiri sherpa on South summit beyond Mt.Lhotse and Far background Mt.Makalu


            Pasang kidar sherpa bottom of the south summit. Below south col platform and background Mt.Lhotse.



Nima Nuru sherpa carring 25kg highvison movie camera on the summit of MtEverest.





2012/5/19 me on wolf skin hat

Its a my 7th times summit of Mt.Everest with Mongolian team. This summit was quite difficult for me because my client didn't speak English and on same day 4 foreigners climbers died on the way back due to bad weather.





2013/5/20
It's my 8th times summit on Mt.Everest with Jagged Globe severest expedition. I worked as sherpa team guide. My summit client was from Morocco and he became the first Morocco Everest summiter as well as on 20th we rescued a team of 7 climbers from the below the balcony to south col.



The year 2014 and 2015 was a  Black years in mountaineering history of Nepal. they are 16 climbing sherpas killed on 18th April 2014  failed seracs  form west shoulder of Everest above the khumbu ice fall and again on 25th April 2015 , 7.8 earthquake shake an avalanche from Mt. Pumori 7161m. into the Everest base camp and they were killed 19 climbers (10 Nepalese and rest westerners).

During  the 2 years disaster on Everest  i involve in the rescue,search and recovery mission. 


( i will continue the post of Everest )







Sunday, August 30, 2015

Lhotse South Face Winter

Its a my 3rd expedition on 8000m in 2003. When i am at the age of 23 year's old. New comers young sherpa and not very experience on this kind of big mountain. I am a Sherpa member of Japan Alpine Club ,Tokai (2003/2006)and the team already try couple years ago same face in winter 2000 but they stop at 7500m.

Same team again in 2003/2006 winter looking on same face South. Its really hard climb and we climb from the bottom of mountain at the altitude of 5100m. and summit 8516m. We set up total 4 camp and including a temporary camp between camp-2 and camp-3. We spend couple of month setting those camp on south face.

We set up camp 1- below 100m overhang rock clip cave at 5900m. altitude and we just put 4 tend for 23 team( 18 sherpa+5 Japanese). They are only this place are safe.rest lots of risk  falling of rock/ice.next camp c-2 we set up on sharp snow ridge middle face where we put just 2 tend at the altitude 7000m. We cut off the ridge. It's a most dangerous part of climbing because of 11 hour climbing  to reach c-2 from c -1 with climbing 100m vertical rock face at night and 600m aproximitly rotten nidle
snow ridge with strong wind in mid  night, crossing  the 20m steep slope under the ice candles, steep 60 degree ice cular etc etc.During the exp. 2006 some my friend( new comers) spend 18 hours on this face c-1to c-2 back c-1

again We set up another temporary camp at7500m a tend and last camp-3 set up at 8000m(2003)/ 8100m (2006).its quite good place and hard snow face undeneth the summit.we put 2 tend and climbing between c-2 to c-3 its more technical and climbing on big vertical rock face cular with 30 to 40 knot strong wind and -20 to -30 cold  temperature.

After all we try first summit team in 2003 they just reach 8400m. Becaus It's too late to push summit and next team cancel and off the expedition because of strong z wind and monsoon start.

Next summit push in 2006 the team already get close to the summit at 8460m. And again they return Becaus confuse of real summit, its to late to find true  summit, its around 4:00 pm.
Those of my expedition on Lhotse south face winter lots of my friends got accident and me too. In 2006 my team lead to set temporary camp and on the way back ice fall on my right hand fingure at c-2 and its  terrible day for me to get base camp  i took 10 hour and after 3 weeks later recover my fingers.since then i never saw any expedition on this face in winter and i remembering those days when i am close to the Mt. Lhotse.

                    On the way to c-2

                       Rotten ice ridge

                Over hang 100m rock face


Topo map of climbing route 2000 in black line/ 2003 in white line and in 2006 we follow same line to clear last line.





Wednesday, August 19, 2015

Ponggen Dokpa first ascent far west summit 5804m

In 2013, during the third component of aspirant guide training held by Nepal Mountain Guide Association (NMGA) we successfully summit  Ponggen Dokpa far west summit 5804m by west ridge. We tried it from north face but due to lose falling rock we did not took the risk so we summitted from the west ridge.
photo by :- Dawa Gyalje Sherpa
Photo by :- Dawa Gyalje Sherpa


  • Crossing the Ponggen Dokpa glacier
Photo by :- Tsering Sherpa

  • Ponggen Dokpa far west 5804m summit.

Photo by :- Tendi Sherpa