In the winter 2017, four sherpa team Me ( Dawa Gyalje sherpa ), Nima Tenjing sherpa, Dawa Yangzum sherpa and Pasang Kidar sherpa on an expedition with permit for unclimbed peak Langdung(6357m.) situated above the remote Rolwaling valley Ripimo Glacier. since, the peak was attempt by few team before us but not succeed.its high point is (6000m.) in 2016.
In 1955 Himalayan expedition survey of Gaurishankar massif map the peak name RPIMUTSE. this peak have couple summit, West summit (6307m.),Central summit 6350m.) and Main summit (6357m.).most of the peak name of 1955 survey and recent name not matched and is bring some time argument to claim first ascent. this time we make sure that the peak was unclimbed from the information of GRINSI LIFFIN who keep the Himalayan expedition data.
We headed on the mountain on 12th of December and reach the base of mountain (5097m.) after a week trekking. we spend only a day at base of mountain and next day we move on by crossing ice fall of langdung to reach our high camp(5700m.) on upper glacier close to the wall of mountain.its took us 6:00 hrs. we are physically strong enough that point but weather seems not stable. Cyrus clouds running over the mountain and its means bad weather sign.
Next morning on 20th December we are planning to push summit early morning but temperature make us late to go summit and we started 6:00 AM morning following the south face ice wall which is 45 to 60 degree. we climbed 300m. ice wall to get the shoulder of southeast ridge (6000m.) it takes us 2:30 hrs then we follow the 1.5 km long SE ridge line to get the summit.
When we reach the SE ridge line its become more longer and sharper which we not expected.we continue the line with mix climbing and few section loose rock ridge make us more challenge.again we climb the last crux rocky pyramid just 50m. below the summit.it took us 5:30 hrs from shoulder to main summit of Langdung. quickly i take out the my sat phone to check the current position and it shows 6350m. on the summit. after spending spectacular summit view and celebration. we quickly descent by south face direct line by 9 rappelling (50m.) to get our high camp and we keep the our route name '' NAMASTE".
|An over view of climbing route on Langdung|
Over all French Grate: PD, SE Face / SE Ridge, 650m. ''NAMASTE''
|on the summit|
|sat phone current position|
|west/central summit view and Gaurishankar/Melungche far background|
|Me leading the final crux rocky pyramid ''Namaste''|
|Me lower section ridge|
|Nima Tenjing Leading|
|Dawa Yangzum on the way Rappelling|
|Upper Glacier Nima Tenjing / Pasang Kidar / Dawa Yangjum|
|Close up Ridge line of Langdung|
|Langdung /Glacier seen from base camp |
|On the way Back Pasang kidar/Dawa gyalje /Dawa yangzum /Nima Tenjing|